Many people ask about what happens when we try and enter countries on Khulula. What is the procedure? What does one do in order to make things run smoothly? Generally, most countries are very accommodating and understanding in checking Khulula and her salty crew in and out of their country. We will call them on the VHF radio a few hours before arriving, chat to the port captain and begin the process of being interviewed by customs, immigration, quarantine, the police and any other necessary persons. The whole process can take between 2 hours and 2 days depending on the country.

Since entering Central America, we seem to have become aware of a NEW system of getting into and out of countries: the “Propina” or tip. Whatever side of the fence you stand with regards to the social implications of the “propina” system, one has to admit that within Central America the only way to make things as smooth as possible, it to divvy out a few propinas.

I am typing this as we motor out of Puerta Quetzal in Guatemala. After departing the surf and howling winds of Nicaragua, we have been making our way up the coast as quick as possible, to avoid an upcoming Tehuantepec wind. Given the fact that we have yet to see more than 10 knots of wind since leaving, this rapid movement is completely as a result of the “Iron Wind” or our diesel engine. Consequently, we were almost out of diesel and facing some hard decisions a hour ago. So after unsuccessfully trying to bargain diesel off a few shrimp boats and passing cruisers, we were forced to enter Puerto Quetzal to try and get fuel.

Entering Guatemala costs $165 US and can take days to get checked-in and checked-out of the country. All we needed was 20 Gallons of diesel fuel and we needed it yesterday. Upon arrival, we were officially informed that we would need to check-in and out of the country, pay the marina and stay for a couple days – all just for 20 gallons of diesel ? What ? After a while of teeth-nashing, hair-ruffling, and generally stressful activity, we came to an agreement with the agent and port captain that for a small “propina” maybe they could overlook the rules for a couple hours…So for the cost of $40 US we had our diesel, we saved $200 US in administration costs, saved Ryan having to fly to Mexico, saved Andy having to look seriously at 15 hour busses and all sorts of general unpleasantness…

So were the officials good officials or bad officials ? Looking at it through the lens of the rule book, they were very bad officials, taking bribes and bending rules. They were taking advantage of “rich” cruisers and padding their pockets to the detriment of a moral society. Yet, perhaps the problem was the rule book, which required cruisers to jump though ridiculous hoops for just 20 gallons of diesel. With this view-point, perhaps they were good officials realizing our situation, and finding a “solution” to our problem. The same could be said for the $100US donation we left on the desk of the head customs official at the San Jose airport, when we finally managed to extricate our new dingy from the fingers of the confounded cargo carriers. Should we be helping further a corrupt society or should we be taking the moral higher ground and displaying the virtues of a moral citizen ?

Another example:

Bad Official: Golfito, Costa Rica. The fine lady at immigration would not accept that we owned Khulula since the registration papers say “OceanGybe Inc” owns Khulula. The other official paperwork showing us owning one “OceanGybe Inc” did nothing to deter her in her crusade to tick every box on her form without engaging her brain. So she send me packing across town to find a lawyer to create an affidavit saying I was able to work as the captain of Khulula. This one lawyer did not even look at any paperwork, just wrote a letter, signed it and gave me a bill for $50 US. Then back to the incredibly hard-working immigration lady to pay her and show her the aforementioned letter. The box got checked and we could move on without any undue brain engagement….

Good Official: Puesta del Sol, Nicaragua. After a fine stay at the marina, we packed up our Sitka surfboards and motored out to the horizon. After about two hours, I realized that I had forgotten a few small things at the marina. Just our passports and boat documents… ho hum. Dammit! So we turned around and started heading back. We managed to contact the port captain, Dorian, on the VHF and explained out situation. “No worries, I will grab them, then climb in a panga and bring them out to you” he said. So about 20 minutes later, Dorian is hanging over the side of a Panga and happily passes our documents wishing us good luck for our voyage up the coast. Good official.

I am not sure of the final message in this diatribe, but maybe that sometimes you get good officials, sometimes you get bad officials, sometime the problem is not the official but rather the rules he or she is required to follow. Onwards to Mexico…the home of the “propina”.