SV Khulula is currently motoring slowly through still, oily, mist covered seas. The stars are out in force lighting the heavens but the sea is hardly even visible. The phosphorescence is so extraordinary tonight that the hull of the boat moving through the water is creating an unearthly glow from under the boat. It is though we have a light on under our keel and the prop wash looks like the fire tail of a jet fighter plane. The lighthouse on the peninsula of Sumbawa has just risen over the horizon and we are looking at a 9am arrival.

We left our secret hideaway bay two days ago and spend last night anchored off a surf spot on western Sumba. After an incredibly rolly night, we moved early to another spot to wait out the day until we could leave with no fear of arriving under the cover of darkness. Last night the entire horizon was filled with lights of the Indonesian squid fishing fleet. The seaward horizon was awash with lights, while not one single light could be seen on the landward side !